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Meeting Kumari - the living Goddess of Nepal - Thrilling Travel Skip to Main Content Search for: A Travel BlogWell-nighTravel Experiences, Destinations, Tips & Travel Fun HomeWell-nighMe Travel Themes Art & People Beaches Cities Culture Heritage Nature Stays Tips Continents Africa Mauritius Morocco Asia Bhutan Cambodia Jordan India Andamans Andhra Pradesh Delhi Goa Gujarat Jammu & Kashmir Karnataka Kerala Madhya Pradesh Maharashtra Meghalaya Rajasthan Tamil Nadu Telangana Uttarakhand Uttar Pradesh Indonesia Israel Malaysia Nepal Singapore Thailand UAE Australia Europe Austria France Hungary Iceland Italy Netherlands Switzerland UK North America Canada USA Published Work Media & Awards Work With Me Contact Me Menu HomeWell-nighMe Travel Themes Art & People Beaches Cities Culture Heritage Nature Stays Tips Continents Africa Mauritius Morocco Asia Bhutan Cambodia Jordan India Andamans Andhra Pradesh Delhi Goa Gujarat Jammu & Kashmir Karnataka Kerala Madhya Pradesh Maharashtra Meghalaya Rajasthan Tamil Nadu Telangana Uttarakhand Uttar Pradesh Indonesia Israel Malaysia Nepal Singapore Thailand UAE Australia Europe Austria France Hungary Iceland Italy Netherlands Switzerland UK North America Canada USA Published Work Media & Awards Work With Me Contact Me 19 Sep 2017 Meeting Kumari – the living Goddess of Nepal by Ami | posted in: Asia, Culture, Heritage, Nepal | 66 As I stood staring at the Kumari Ghar in Kathmandu Durbar Square, I thought to myself – there has to be some connection that brought me when to this country so soon – in fact, within just 3 months of my first and previous visit. If you have followed my older trip, you would have known that I had missed the Kathmandu Durbar Square and the Kumari Ghar owing to the lack of time. I did want to return when to explore it but never in my dreams, did I imagine it to be so soon. I suppose, my role as Nepali Jones was not yet over and as fate had it – I was when on an invite by the Nepal tourism workbench to wits their yearly festival – Indra Jatra. And increasingly importantly, to well-constructed what I had left the last time. Kumari Ghar at the far end of the Kathmandu Durbar Square My first encounter with Kumari was her picture that ornate the scenery of a stage where the famed Lakhey Dance was stuff performed. Her innocent vision and that unexceptionable smile had me curious and I remember chatting with my host on the legend of the Living Goddess. What I discovered was a bit torturous and yet there was no dousing my marvel – for it is not every day that you come wideness a faith put into a child. With this visit to Nepal, I not just met the Kumari but visited her in her abode, all the while chatting with the locals to find out what it really meant to be a symbol of hope. Definitely not a bed or roses but quite unusual. Let’s embark on this journey together to know what it ways to be a Kumari. Legend of the Living Goddess – Kumari Kumari substantially ways Virgin. It is believed that the Goddess Taleju (an incarnation of Goddess Durga) resides within a special girl child and that girl child becomes the Kumari or the Living Goddess.  The Goddess is said to reside within the girl till she comes of age without which she vacates her soul to occupy another. Kumari during the Indra Jatra There are several legends tying to how this tradition of worshipping Kumari came about. All of them revolve virtually the last King Jayaprakash Malla. It seems that that the Goddess Taleju used to visit the King and in one of those meetings, he got a little too carried yonder – unbearable to made unwarranted advances towards the Goddess. She got wrestling and left. The King tightly regretted this and begged her to return. The Goddess then well-set to return as a child and since, has been worshipped as a Kumari. There have been several Kumaris till stage and in fact, there are rumors of not just one but many at a given time. They say that the smaller villages and towns like Patan too, have their own Kumaris. However, the one who is supreme resides in the Kumari Ghar at Kathmandu Durbar Square. where I stood recounting my incomplete past visit to Nepal. Kumari Ghar If I were to describe what I was staring at in a few words it would be – “An intricate 3-storey wooden towers that housed a legend“. No doubt that there are aspects of the Kumari Ghar that fascinated me, but it was the sheer knowledge of it stuff an workplace of a Living Legend that overpowered everything. It took me a while to shake off that feeling and start appreciating the towers for what it was. Intricate circles or chakras on the windows of Kumari Ghar The Kumari Ghar was under renovation but I urge you to go vastitude the scaffolding that you see in the pictures. You will soon fathom the stunning windows and doors that greet you. At one end you have the window with intricate circles or chakras and right next to it the 3D peacock windows. Both fine examples of the Newari art. Each scarification within the window seemed to symbolize something. It was evident that the artisans had their story to tell. Peacock windows and the door way with Goddess Taleju carved on it Close up of the Goddess Taleju carved on the doorways of Kumari gharWidenessall the doors and windows were these resulting doorway arches with the scarification of the Taleju Goddess – the lady in the part-way with numerous hands. However, there was a slight difference in the one that greeted you at the main door. It was not just the verisimilitude but the fact that it had a Garuda right whilom Goddess Taleju’s figurine. The door reminded me of the Golden Gate of the 55 Windows Palace in Bhaktapur Square. Kumari Ghar From the roof, you will see a small headpiece kind of jewelry (maang tikka as tabbed in Hindi) hanging. Quite unreceptive to what Kumari wears on her head. Check out the golden windows on the third floor. For the moment, I thought that those would be the windows through which Kumari would solemnize the crowd. However, the locals corrected me and said that those windows were just within the Kumari Ghar, in its inner courtyard. Inner Courtyard of the Kumari Ghar Pass through those white guardian lions and you will find that the Kumari Ghar is quite simple from within. A inside courtyard greets you with a large plant uplifting it. All virtually are the same stunning wooden pillars, doors and windows reflecting the Newari art. The windows that squatter the archway is where the Living Goddess sometimes greets her devotees with her guardian priestess. It is then, you are not unliable to photograph the insides. The windows of Kumari Ghar Windows where Kumari greets her devotees Meeting the KumariArchwayto the Kumari’s chambers Day One to three were not so lucky for me as one was not unliable to visit Kumari just then. However, my luck reverted on Day 4, as the legend decided to requite an regulars to the Hindus. We were unliable up to her chambers and as we went in, we saw a little girl lying on a cot with a priestess virtually her. She seemed disinterested in us and just stared yonder from us. This was just as well for if we were to believe the omens, then her not stuff interested meant that all was well for us.  It is said that if she reacts by way of crying or clapping hands or laughter, there is a disaster in store for you. Thankfully, this was told to us without we exited the premises. Truth be told, when I first saw the Kumari, I felt a little disturbed. In my mind’s eye, I saw my own little girl lying there disinterested and upheld for something she was not plane enlightened of.  It somehow did not finger right to me but then, to each their own tradition. Selection of Kumari Disturbed as I was, I wondered how the little girl unquestionably became a Kumari. What went into making her the chosen one? Selection of Kumari is a rigorous process The selection of the Living Goddess included finding girls with a favorable horoscope from the Newari clan. The shortlisted girls are then checked for the unrepealable criteria based on appearance. A few of those included them having eyelashes like the cow, a conch shell kind of a neck and thighs like the deer. Once the candidate is chosen, she is put through some rigorous tests where she has to witness the butchering of animals without flinching or fear and has to spend a night in a place with sufferer animals around. Once her fearlessness is established and she becomes the chosen one. There are numerous other rituals that she is put through but none of the locals that I spoke to were worldly-wise to detail those out. Life of a Kumari Once the chosen Kumari enters her palace, that is the last time she walks on the ground. From then on, she either walks on a carpet or is carried virtually until she ceases to be a Kumari. She leaves all her materialistic things and stops going outside. Her feet are considered to be sacred – so much that the people kiss them. She is often dressed in red and has a fire eye adorns her forehead. Present day Kumari of Kathmandu Her desires and demands are considered important and people in her service, work nonflexible to ensure that they are met. Her playmates are generally, children who stay within the premises. She is traditionally not educated. However, with modernization, I understand that there is some bit of private tutoring that takes superintendency of her learning. This is quite required for the Kumari remains in this role till she comes of age or if she falls sick or bleeds from an injury. This is when they say that the Goddess has left her body. When this happens, the current Goddess returns to regular life and the quest for her successor begins. There is plenty on the net on how life becomes tough for these girls for they have not really led a regular, normal life. Some of them do not plane get married for there is a myth that whoever marries a former Kumari, will suffer death. Reading well-nigh it had me a little on the whet but at the same time, I felt helpless too. There is so much devotion to this tradition that there is little one can do. Maybe Kumari is a hope for those who are drowning of sorrows and one really cannot take yonder that hope. Crowds thronging to see Kumari during the Indra Jatra The strength of this faith is so obvious when you witness the crowds at the Indra Jatra – the one festival that allows you to glimpse at Kumari. They say that you are in for a lot of luck if you do manage a sight of her.  People throng on the streets and wideness rooftops to just do that and if you want to know what I really midpoint – stay tuned for my next post on the Indra Jatra. For now, you ponder well-nigh what you have learned through my meeting of Kumari and leave when your thoughts below. Getting here: There are plenty of flights that can get you to Kathmandu directly. Alternately if you are from India, you can also, opt to momentum in from wideness the border. Kumari Ghar is located in Kathmandu Durbar Square, which is quite inside to the city. You can plane opt for an walk-up here for an easy wangle to not just Kathmandu Durbar Square but the rest of the interesting places in Kathmandu. Travel Tips: Visiting Kumari Ghar is included as a part of the ticket that one needs to purchase for Kathmandu Durbar Square. The ticket price for a Non-SAARC resider is Nepali Rupees 1000 and for a SAARC country resident is Nepali Rupees 150. You are unliable in the inner courtyard of Kumari Ghar, irrespective of your religion. Photography is permitted here except for when Kumari is addressing the audience. If you are a Hindu, you will be unliable to go to her chambers and visit her Remember to dress modestly when visiting the Kumari No matter what your opinions are, I urge you to pay respect to the Nepali traditions and sentiments.   P.S: I was invited to visit Nepal for the Indra Jatra festival by Nepal TourismWorkbenchand Explore Himalaya   Like this:Like Loading...Share the Thrill of Travel191Shares191Shares Indra Jatra, Kathmandu Durbar Square, Kumari, Kumari Ghar, Kumari Jatra, Places to see in Kathmandu, The living Goddess of Nepal, Things to do in Nepal Previous Post Next Post 66 Responses Srivalli Jetti September 19, 2017 | Reply This is such a lovely post!..I remember reading well-nigh this living legend many many years ago!..you brought when those memories with this lovely pictures! Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply Thank you Srivalli. I am indeed happy to have had this opportunity to see her. Doreen Pendgracs September 19, 2017 | Reply Thanks so much for this post, Ami. It was interesting to read well-nigh the Kumari of Nepal, and your photos are lovely! Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply Thank you Doreen. Glad you enjoyed the post. Harsh Wardhan Jog September 19, 2017 | Reply Interesting read & good photos. Somehow not stipulate to ‘ Living ‘ Kumaree. Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply I know what you midpoint Harsh. Not a very pleasant visit but no doubt an interesting one. carmyy September 20, 2017 | Reply I didn’t know that well-nigh the feet! Interesting how she would have to walk in carpet or carried virtually (not that I wouldn’t mind stuff carried around…). This must have been such an interesting experience! Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply It sure was an interesting wits and to learn well-nigh an unique culture, plane increasingly so. Hope you get to visit some time Carmyy. arunprasadhm September 20, 2017 | Reply Interesting info.Trappycaptures. Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply Thanks Arun Jyotirmoy Sarkar September 20, 2017 | Reply Good to know well-nigh he tradition. Which increasingly attracted me are the buildings and its architecture….so trappy they are !!!!!!. Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply Thanks Jyotirmoy. Happy that you enjoyed the post. Mayuri Nidigallu September 20, 2017 | Reply I loved to read your perspective of the Kumari visit. Gorgeous pictures and such a trappy write up. Simply amazing, Ami!:) Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply Thank you Mayuri, happy to see that you enjoyed the post. Sudhir Chauhan September 20, 2017 | Reply wasnt enlightened of it…. that was a very good read….. Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply Thanks Sudhir for stopping by and am happy that you liked the post. yogi sarswat September 20, 2017 | Reply What a unconfined occasion for you to meet Kumari !! Very very informative post , equally supported with grand pictures !! Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply I was indeed lucky. Glad that I got to share it with you and you enjoyed the post too. Cheers Yogi jaishree September 20, 2017 | Reply Superb write up with unconfined content and lucid narration. Loved it. Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply Thanks you Jaishree. Paige Wunder September 20, 2017 | Reply This is very interesting! I’ve not heard of Kumari, but it looks like a very special thing to do. The towers is a site in itself, then you add a living goddess and that’s just an incredibly unique experience! Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply One of its kind wits indeed. So much to see and learn with Kumari. Thanks for stopping by Paige neha September 20, 2017 | Reply It’s true it is scrutinizingly untellable to transpiration this kind of tradition that instills so much faith in people. I had read well-nigh the story of these kumaris long when in a magazine. And it totally tapped my heart. For a short duration, they are goddess. And thereafter, although it’s believed the Goddess left their body, they never return when to a normal life like me and you. I guess education can only transpiration it, and over years – gradually. But I do hope it all changes one day. Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply It will take some time for people to realize this. I am glad that at least education has been taken on for these girls. At least the first step! Thanks for stopping by Neha Tania Mukherjee September 20, 2017 | Reply It must be such a hair raising wits for you. I am wondering well-nigh the lives of those kumaris who are doomed forever once they stop stuff the kumari. First they lose their childhood, then the superstitions tying will not let them live a proper sultana life. I wish people get over veiling faith someday. Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply It was quite a torturous wits and yet I could not say it was not interesting. Hoping for a transpiration in this weighing so that things get largest for these girls. Thanks for stopping by Tania. xhobdo September 20, 2017 | ReplyUnconfinedto read your post on Kumari Puja festival.Wondrouspics. Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply Thank you Rupam Ryan Biddulph September 20, 2017 | Reply Hi Ami, Very fascinating. I recall walking through the Square in Kathmandu when we visited in 2013. Colorful place. REALLY colorful place, with intriguing holy men and the like, looking for some scrilla. I loved KTM for its real nature. Ya know, gritty, warm, authentic. The people were so kind too. I met a few blogging buddies there for dinner as well, when when I ran a very variegated blog in a Universe far, far away. Thanks for sharing Ami. Ryan Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply Thanks Ryan. I can see you got a little nostalgic with the post. Glad to get you through those happy memories asoulwindow September 20, 2017 | Reply This was one event I will not forget in a long time. I had never seen anything like this. The Kumari had an nimbus of her own. There was lot of enigma to her personality. The Durban Square of Kathmandu where all the whoopee was happening is moreover one of my favourite hangout. Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply It sure was an wits – one that I will not forget for a long long time. Glad we could make it for this one Ozzy September 20, 2017 | Reply That is an wits in itself. Although a little disheartening to think well-nigh the life without stuff a kumari. Personally I have unchangingly enjoyed the vivacity of the municipality of Kathmandu. The history and tradition can still be seen here in perfect harmony. Glad to see the country vellicate when without the devastating earthquake.Unconfinedpictures! Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply Yes, it is heartening to see how they have bounced when without that earthquake. I stipulate with your views on the Kumari story. Sad but an interesting experience. Candy September 21, 2017 | Reply I was wondering how these girls were selected and am glad you wrote well-nigh it. So interesting the specific soul features they squint for and that they moreover segregate fearless girls. I wonder what the other rituals are! Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply Yes, it is interesting but a little despairing to note that they pick girls who do not plane understand why they are stuff picked. It will take some time for it to transpiration but well. Thanks for stopping by Candy Thelittlelai:Vastitudelimits September 21, 2017 | Reply Wow, flipside trip with filled of so much culture to know and to experience. I love how you were worldly-wise to elucidate all details and how you were worldly-wise to express your wits during this trip. There will unchangingly be something wondrous whenever we get to dig deeper on the culture of places that we visited. I know how satisfying this trip for you. Thank yous so much for sharing this with us. Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply This trip sure was epic and fun. Totally enjoyed discovering these little cultural details well-nigh the place. Sandy N Vyjay September 21, 2017 | Reply The Kumari enigma is really fascinating. Very interesting post that veraciously provides a lot of information well-nigh the Kumari festival. The stringent tests that the young girls have to go through to qualify as a Kumari are indeed really tough and test their endurance. Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply Sad, tough but interesting is how I would term the experience. It sure was an illuminating find. Thanks for stopping by . Chasing Krista September 21, 2017 | Reply this sounds like such a life-changing experience! the facts that you are written well-nigh are so interesting! thank you for sharing this! Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply Glad you liked it Krista. Cheers Julz September 21, 2017 | Reply I saw a program well-nigh these goddesses not long ago on French TV – I thought it was super interesting. I really enjoyed your post. Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply It sure is a unique concept and tradition. Happy to share the same Julz. Cheers Andra September 21, 2017 | Reply Very interesting article. I first found out well-nigh the Kumari from a National Geographic article. But their lives surely sound strange to us. It’s inevitable to have mixed feelings well-nigh this tradition but in the end it is their culture and we have to respect it. I am curious how many cases were to supoort the theory that whoever marries to a Kumari will soon die. Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply Good to see you mirror my emotions on this one Andra. It was a novel wits that left me with a lot of mixed feelings. Marieve September 21, 2017 | Reply What a unconfined post! You have an incredible endangerment to have been invited & to have taken part of that celebration. Such a unconfined inside squint at flipside country’s culture! That to me is what I love well-nigh traveling. ♡ Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply Totally, getting deeper into a nation’s culture and largest still wits it…the weightier abt travel. Thanks for stopping by Marieve. Dominique Lessard September 21, 2017 | ReplyStuffthe Kumari is probably a heavy undersong to carry.Unconfinedpost! Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply It sure is Dominique. Blair Villanueva September 22, 2017 | Reply Here’s what made me think.. What if the chosen Kumari, doesn’t want to be a Kumari. Can she decline? What wiuld happen to her without stuff a Kumari? Is there an expiration stage for the job, or its a lifetime Kumari? Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply It is considered to be an honor to be chose and I doubt that the girls parents ripen it. Also, the girl herself is too young. And as for what happens to her, have shared that. Thanks for stopping by Blair Maitreni Mishra September 22, 2017 | Reply Such interesting info well-nigh the Kumari of Nepal with some phenomenal snaps. 🙂 Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply Thanks Maitreni. 🙂 Joy Generoso September 23, 2017 | Reply Interesting! I didn’t know that there’s something like this in Nepal. One thing I love well-nigh reading blogs is you’ll learn a lot well-nigh places, people, culture, history and many more. Now I got curious.. I think I need to do some research. Ami September 25, 2017 | Reply I am sure you will find plenty on Kumari but to wits it yourself is something else. Hope you get to it some time Joy My Travelogue by Bhushavali September 25, 2017 | Reply I’ve heard so much well-nigh the Kumari living goddess of Nepal. I remember the royal event of probably anointing a new Kumari or an Indra Jatra that happened in the 90s, when I watched it on TV… Vague memories… My mom was explaining it all to me. You’re indeed lucky to have unquestionably seen them yourself! The Kumari Ghar is just stunning!!! Ami September 29, 2017 | Reply Thanks Bhushavali. I was lucky alright and considering that this Kumari just retired. I suppose I was just in time to see her. SindhuMurthy September 26, 2017 | Reply While I’m enthralled well-nigh the trappy tracery and carvings of the Kumari Ghar, I really am upset well-nigh many aspects on how Kumari is selected and what follows without the girl ceases to be a Kumari. Expecting a little girl to stand unperturbed while an unprepossessing is butchered and letting her to spend 24 hrs surrounded sufferer animals is really disgusting. Is it not taking yonder the innocence off the child? Following traditions is fine but I wonder what message the government wants to convey with such an act. I word-stock help but pray for this custom to transpiration so that the girls are not victimized in the name of traditions. It is good to know that the girls are provided some education but it is a long wait till the society understands the implications of the practise and make changes. Sorry for the long rant but I’m quite disturbed without reading the post. Again, as you say, to each their own tradition. Btw, I really love the way you have communicated the details and your thoughts well-nigh the tradition without glorifying it. Ami September 29, 2017 | Reply I am glad you have spoken your mind on this one Sindhu. It is indeed a little sad and very very disturbing. While we dwell on this, the Kumari that I saw just retired and we have a new 3 year old who has taken her place. The good news is that this time a lot of families backed out from sending their daughters. I think maybe sensation has crept in and well, looks like transpiration is on its way. anindya0909 September 27, 2017 | Reply Loved reading this. I have been to Nepal surpassing the earthquake hence have some blogposts in my blogs also.Fathomthis effort by you and explaining the history.Increasinglypower to you Ami September 29, 2017 | Reply Thank you Anindya. Glad you enjoyed the post. MikeNatalie October 2, 2017 | Reply I really enjoyed my time in Nepal. It must be so difficult to be put in that role. You really did a unconfined job explaining everything, it was a unconfined and informative read. Thank you! Ami October 18, 2017 | Reply Thank you Mike and Natalie. It sure was not an all out pleasant feeling to see Kumari for those thoughts were disturbing. Hoping that with awareness, there will be a change. saim October 21, 2017 | Reply nice post thanks for sharing Ami October 24, 2017 | Reply Thank you Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email write will not be published. Required fields are marked *Comment Name * Email * Website Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Notify me of new posts by email. By using this form you stipulate with the storage and handling of your data by this website. * This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your scuttlebutt data is processed. Search for:Well-nighme - Am a restless wittiness of energy, born with a travel bug. 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